Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Aneya & Lauren: Sickness.


Aneya
: So basically Lauren thought she was dying for a couple days there. We don't know how it happened or why, but I could see she was seriously starting to deteriorate before my very eyes. I had had an issue with the ice a couple days back (we've been trying to stay away from tap water, but ice can be trickier). I felt horrible after drinking it, and my stomach was in cramps for the rest of the day. When I woke up the next morning, I was fine. Some Coke and a couple (non salted) crackers, and I was good to go. Not so for poor Lauren.

Lauren: Dizziness, nausea, cramps, vomiting, muscle aches, mild headaches. You name it, this week I had it. I saw it all: The blog would be renamed to "Just Aneya in Chile", letters of condolence being sent to my parents. We went from travelling the streets of Santiago, to staying home, hardly moving. Poor Aneya was stuck in the apartment with miserable me, while I just tried very hard to hold still.

Aneya: I just felt so helpless. Here was Lauren, in obvious pain, and there was nothing I could do to help her. We tried to brainstorm together. What had she eaten that I hadn't? She really hadn't eaten much at all. Being a vegetarian in Chile is harder than she thought, as everything seems to come with a surprise hunk of meat in it. Lauren had been mostly eating bread with palta, salads, vegetables, and the like.

Lauren: It started Monday, and unable to trace the source of my illness I just stopped eating and drinking all together, probably only exacerbating my sickness. Anytime I tried to eat, I felt super nauseous. Especially vegetables. I was simultaneously starving and desperate to eat something, but repelled by anything that I ate. It was complete misery. I'm sure I was not the face Aneya wanted to see across the dinner table.

Aneya: For some reason Lauren was really craving mashed potatoes, but ended getting a salad with rice instead (I'm telling you, ordering here is tricky!) She looked like she was about to throw up with every miserable bite. I sat in front of her, eating my ham sandwich, trying to think of what food she could eat, because she was obviously starving. But I was drawing a blank. Everything was making her nauseous.

Lauren: Mashed potatoes sounded amazing. My dad thinks they're God's gift to man ("They're just the perfect food. Everything you need".) And it seemed like something bland that might actually stick.

Of course, my first thought was "I need to call my mother." But before that, I called Daniela, asked about good over-the-counter products in Chile, and she recommended what the pharmacist said when we visited: these drops in a small vile. The only catch was that you couldn't eat for 24 hours, which seemed like it would only make the dizziness situation worse. Aneya suggested we turn this into an international situation, and soon phone calls were placed to different parents in Santa Monica, Las Vegas, and Marseille, France.

My mom said to listen to a pharmacist "who looks like he knows what he's talking about," and maybe abide by a strict BRAT diet. It might not be drinking the water, but eating things rinsed in water, like vegetables.

Aneya: I called my dad in Las Vegas, who, as usual, overreacted. He then called up his "medical team" of specialists, who were put on the phone to assess Lauren's symptoms. The whole thing was just crazy. One nurse told us she needed to go to the hospital, asap, and get an IV fluid in her, because she was seriously dehydrated. She also said she'd need antibiotics, stat!

Lauren: Aneya's dad, Tilak, was very kind and genuinely concerned. He could hear my low energy over the phone, and things weren't looking good. He suggested that Aneya rub limes on my feet, a technique done around the world, apparently do it and it works wonders. I wasn't exactly sure how Aneya would feel about that.

Aneya: My dad then suggested that I get some limes and rub them on Lauren's feet. "People do it everywhere!" He protested. Because that wouldn't be awkward at all. Next thing I know he'd tell me to sprinkle a warm bowl of water over her belly. These people weren't helping at all!

Lauren: So, since we were already international, we thought we'd get Aneya's mother, Terri, on the line and run the symptoms by her. She thought that a visit to the homeopathic pharmacy was in order. Seeing as this was the less harsh option (compared to hospitalization, getting an IV inserted, rubbing limes on my feet), we decided to follow this course plus the BRAT diet.

It was, of course, a "we" situation. Although it was my sickness, Aneya and I have started making all major decisions. "We're hungry," "We could go for a sammich," (Aneya: This is how I pronounce "sandwich". And now Lauren does too). "We think he's cute," "We should go to the homeopathic store."

Aneya: I was so glad I called my mother. Finally, a rational perspective on all this craziness. She was very calm about the whole thing (as she always is) and told us that she wasn't surprised the vegetables made Lauren sick, as they could be filled with pesticides or be rinsed in dirty water. (Apparently, when we'd gone to Nepal, they told us to stay away from all produce. I don't remember this, I was only 6 or 7).

Lauren: There was a consensus among the mothers: It was the produce. My friend the vegetable had turned on me. All I eat is fruits, vegetables, grains, and light dairy. If I can't eat my produce, then what?

We decided a homeopathic store was the least harsh alternative, and made a quick run to the homeopathic store (of which there are many).

Aneya: My mom also suggested Lauren ask the pharmacist if this was a common travel's sickness, and to be very clear about all her symptoms. We thanked her and made our way to the Homeopathic pharmacy, praying they could help.

And that they did. The men working there were every sweet and patient, and listened intently as Lauren listed all her various symptoms. They then got out those tiny little bottles filled with little white pills and told her which to take, and when. And voila! A cure was found!

Lauren: I was given three bottles of different homeopathic remedies for nausea, dizziness + nausea, and something else. I was a bit wary of the price, since in LA homeopathic medicines are exorbitant, but all three bottles cost me about $4.

Now, abiding by my BRAT diet, taking my pills regularly, and hydrating again, it seems I (hopefully) am well on the road to recovery ... with a couple of bumps in the road.


-- Aneya & Lauren

Aneya & Lauren: Our New Apartment

Aneya: Here I am, reading on our couch
Aneya: Here's Lauren, cleaning, as usual

Lauren: Our little washing machine sits just behind the these stools.
Aneya: Look at our cute little kitchen! Lauren was shocked by the tiny fridge, I told her in France our fridge was just as small, and had to fit enough food for 6 of us!
Lauren: My bedroom! Although it looks dark, it gets great natural light and came with a little desk. Brigid's needlepoint "Journalists Do It Daily" made the trek down to South America and is on the desk.
Aneya: Lauren insisted on taking a picture of her lantern.
Lauren: My bathroom or, currently, my new bedroom.
Aneya: Welcome to my bedroom!
Aneya: My bathroom, which has a drying rack, and a street view from the shower
Lauren: The church across the street is spectacular. At night it lights up and looks incredible. In the distance you can see the Castle Hidalgo.
Aneya: Lauren's artsy shot of our laundry.
Aneya: Look how happy I am, sitting on my bed, pretending to use my computer.
Aneya: So this is the view from my bedroom window. Pretty cool, huh?
Lauren: The view from the 10th floor outside our window! We could see the uncle marionette from here.


-- Aneya & Lauren

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Lauren: Leg cafes.

Peppered throughout the streets of Santiago are these little walk up cafes. No seats or stools, you just walk in, walk up to a tiny counter where female servers in tiny dresses and skirts serve you a quick shot of expresso and you're on your way.

Obviously geared toward a male clientele, the only people you will find in these places are 80+-year-old men, all standing, gossiping like housewives! It's kind of cute ... except for the scandalously short skirts.

My first week here I had terrible coffee at our hostel and was tempted to sneak in and get a to-go shot, but A. It's just too hot to have any kind steaming beverage and B. I refuse to support an establishment with dress code that requires women to wear high heels and skimpy skirts. Period.

Some of these places have women wearing shirts with just panties! Their windows are blacked out from the middle down so passersby don't see these skimpy outfits. Incredible.

-- Lauren

Aneya: American Culture in Chile


It's quite prevalent, actually. I'm still surprised by the amount of American movies and music I see and hear everyday in Santiago. "Sherlock Holmes" and "It's Complicated" (or, Enamorado de mi ex, as it's called here. Ah foreign translations, how I've missed you!) both came out at the end of January, which is not far behind the December release date in the States. I've heard everything from Lady Gaga to Katy Perry, from Beyonce to the Beatles, I even heard Keisha's hit single "Tik Tok" the other day. Now, that's current! Most of these pop songs can be heard blasting through the speakers of some hip bar or club, or a high end fashion mall.

Now, the radio here is a different matter. I've heard everything from very traditional Latin music to old school American rock and roll. I even heard Carla Bruni's hit single "Quel qu'un m'a dit" (Miss Bruni, for all you non Francophiles, is the First Lady of France, as well as a recording artist, model, fashionista and all around badass.)

Lauren and I finally turned on our TV the other day, and we were slightly confused at what we saw. There was some crazy telanovella-like soap on, with the strangest looking people. All the men were old and ugly, all the women young and beautiful. The men always seemed to be yelling, the women, always crying. Neither of us could follow the story line, but there was lots of dramatic exits and hospital kisses. Very bizarre. The other channels were streaming music from some big concert, another channel had some dating show on (again, the people on these shows looked nothing like the people I see on the streets every day).

There's also a plethora of American fast food restaurants, which is both depressing and a sign of globalization at it's best. McDonald's, KFC, Burger King, Subway, Starbucks. There's even a Ruby Tuesday's down here! That I found very odd. Everything at McDonald's has avocado on it (they love their palta here!) and I tried a "McNifica" which was quite good.

For some reason I figured American culture wouldn't follow us all the way to the end of the world. But, alas, it has. I bet I could find a Whopper in Antarctic, if I tried hard enough. If only the good things about the States could be shipped around the world, and not the bad. But what are you gonna do? People love their fast food, and we're more than happy to give it to them.


- Aneya

Monday, February 1, 2010

Aneya & Lauren: Street Art Pictures.

Lauren: Barrio Lasstaria, really cute area with a lot of shops, markets, cafes, bars, and street art.


Lauren: This is a mural in Bellavista.




Lauren: The Bellas Artes Metro stop, about three blocks from our apartment.


Aneya: Me, eskimo kissing Pablo Neruda
Aneya: Lauren, also loving Pablo.

Aneya: My Take on the Food



So people who know me know I'm no foodie. My idea of a gourmet meal is a Lean Cuisine or a frozen pizza. But that doesn't mean I don't like good food, or that I can't recognize it. I lived in the South of France for many years, so I know what good Mediterranean cuisine tastes like. I also grew up with a Sri Lankan father, so I know a good, spicy curry when I see one. Not to mention I practically lived in restaurants all my life (whether it be in New York or Las Vegas or LA) and I can tell you what a good steak tastes like. In any case, I have a solid opinion when it comes to food, but I'm also up for just about anything, and I had no idea what to expect in Chile.

Well. The food here is....it's really quite bland, actually. For some reason I was expecting lots of spices, an almost Mexican flare. Boy, was I wrong. Our first night here I had spaghetti bolognese (I know, hardly a Chilean dish) but it came with this big hunk of rock hard meat in it, I couldn't even cut it! Hardly appetizing. Salads come without any dressing, crackers have no salt, there is just NO flavoring whatsoever, on anything. Even the quesillo, the Chilean cheese, it just tastes like...nothing. Sort of like mozzarella, but with less flavor.

Now, the produce is amazing, as Lauren said. Great, fresh fruit, fresh fruit juices, great drinks, overall. The wine is cheap and really flavorful, the beer is tasty, pisco sours and all the drinks that spaun from them are delicious. The bread here is also very fresh and yummy (as are empanadas, the cheese filled pastry pictured above. They are just delicioso!) But everything else just feels like it's lacking in some essential ingredient.

There are a plethora of Chinese restaurants lining the streets here (whereas we've only seen one Indian place) so we decided to try one out one night. It was the most bland Chinese food I've ever experienced. Even the soy sauce tasted weird. No me gusta.

Also, ordering here is very tricky. One day I ordered a turkey pita and they brought me ham on toast. Que? It's even more difficult for Lauren, the vegetarian. The other day she ordered vegetable soup and found a hunk of meat floating in it. Now that's a nasty surprise!

In any case, I'm sure we'll get used to all of this, in due time. In the meantime, does anyone want to send me some curry?

Aneya & Lauren: Castle Pictures.

So here I am with my new friend Pablo, one of the many friends we met at the party.
Lauren: My dancing partner, Pablo, who challenged Aneya and I to try the empanadas of his hometown Vina del Mar, and gave Aneya $20 (USD) to send back if we didn't like them. We instead have decided to keep and exchange this to be food for a week.
More friends!
The girls!
First night out on the town!
So, the story of the rose. Lauren and I were waiting in line to get drinks and this guy behind me started talking to me, telling me he loved my hair and therefore, loved me. "Ahhh me encanata!" He said, and I asked Lauren for a translation, she was like, "He....he just loves you." I thought this was peculiar, and decided to just smile nicely at him. Then he takes this rose from behind the bar, kisses my hand, and gives it to me. I happily took it and left. When Lauren and I walked by them again, he and his friends starting clapping. No se porque!

Lauren: It was so weird. This guy (and a few others) were fascinated with Aneya's hair.
Lauren and Valeria
Valeria and I
Lauren and I, in front of the castle!